Chiang Mai’s coffee scene has been brewing up a storm in recent years, and that’s thanks to the third-wave coffee movement coming together with the city’s unique design sensibilities.
A quick glance through Instagram accounts documenting Chiang Mai’s incomparable cafe scene quickly informs you of the city’s gift for aesthetics, but the journey from bean to cup is one that might be worth explaining. What exactly is third-wave coffee, and why is it so good for both coffee aficionados and the communities it touches?
The Evolution of Chiang Mai’s Coffee Culture
What is Third-Wave Coffee?
Third-wave coffee is a movement that treats coffee as an artisanal product, similar to wine, whiskey, or craft beer. It prioritizes the entire journey from farm to cup, emphasizing sustainability, ethical sourcing, a high-quality end product, and consumer involvement. Third-wave coffee invites you to express preferences around bean origin, roast level, flavor profile, and other unique characteristics of the bean, roaster, and cafe.
Some would put down third-wave coffee as pretentious, but let’s ignore those haters while they choke down their stale, chalky, bitter Robusta “blend.”
Principles of Third-Wave Coffee:
- Focus on the bean’s origin and farmer
- Last-minute roasting
- Ethical and sustainable sourcing
- Quality over quantity
- Complex flavors celebrated, not masked
How Does It Differ from First and Second Wave?
First-wave coffee was all about accessibility and convenience (think instant coffee and big coffee chains). The second wave brought in the experience and drink variety (think Starbucks, lattes, and Frappuccinos).
First Wave | Convenience and Mass Production | This wave is all about making coffee accessible and affordable to everyone. Think instant coffee and big coffee chains. |
Second Wave | Experience and Variety | Here, it’s not just about the coffee; it’s about the experience. More options like lattes, cappuccinos, and a focus on the café atmosphere. |
Third Wave | Quality, Ethics, Artisanal Focus | This wave takes coffee to an art form. It’s about where the bean comes from, how it’s roasted, and how it’s brewed. Ethical sourcing and high-quality beans are key. |
Is Third-Wave Coffee 'Better'?
In short, yes. It’s not just about the delicious cup of coffee produced – it’s about the entire ecosystem.
At its core, third-wave coffee is a movement that transforms the way we perceive and consume our daily cup of joe. It’s not just about caffeine; it’s a holistic approach to coffee that emphasizes quality, ethics, and sustainability.
For the grower, third-wave coffee represents better opportunities. By promoting direct trade, it ensures that coffee farmers receive fair compensation for their labor, lifting them out of poverty and empowering their communities. Furthermore, this coffee movement embraces environmentally friendly farming practices, making it a win-win for both the growers and Mother Nature herself. In the hills of Chiang Mai, where lush coffee plantations thrive, this commitment to sustainability has transformed the landscape, resulting in not only exquisite coffee beans but also a thriving ecosystem.
But what sets third-wave coffee apart is its unwavering dedication to craftsmanship. In Chiang Mai’s cafes, you’ll find baristas who are true artisans, elevating the brewing process to an art form. This meticulous attention to detail extends to bean cultivation, where farmers are encouraged to employ artisanal techniques, resulting in beans that are bursting with unique flavors. This focus on the bean’s inherent qualities also means there’s less reliance on sugar or cream to mask undesirable tastes, making it a healthier choice for coffee lovers. Moreover, the third-wave coffee movement fosters a sense of community among growers, sellers, and drinkers, creating a vibrant ecosystem where everyone is dedicated to the pursuit of the perfect cup of coffee.
So, the next time you savor a cup of Chiang Mai’s finest, remember that you’re not just sipping coffee; you’re immersing yourself in a culture that values quality, sustainability, and community, making it a truly exceptional coffee experience.
The Unique Factors Behind Chiang Mai's Coffee Scene
Chiang Mai is a World-Class Coffee-Bean Growing Region
The link between local farmers and the coffee market in Chiang Mai isn’t just about supply and demand. It’s a partnership rooted in quality and proximity. Because local farmers cater to a market that’s just a few hours away, they’re motivated to provide what Chiang Mai wants—sustainable, complex, and unique Arabica beans.
What separates the wheat from the chaff—or in this case, the beans from the husks—is quality. Farms that consistently produce high-quality beans aren’t just surviving; they’re thriving. They’re the ones driving the market, setting the bar high, and encouraging everyone else to reach it.
It’s also worth mentioning that many of these farms open their gates to the public. They love showing off their blend of modern, sustainable practices alongside traditional farming techniques. Tours of coffee farms aren’t just a fun day out; they’re an education in what makes Chiang Mai coffee special.
In many parts of the world, single-origin beans can break the bank. Not here. Since the beans only have to travel about three hours from the farm to your cup, costs are kept low. This local sourcing contributes not only to affordability but also to the freshness of the coffee. It’s hard to beat anywhere else in the world.
A Mixologist’s Approach to Coffee
What happens when you have to marry the Thai preference for cold, sweet caffeine drinks with the Western preference for hot espresso drinks? The result of trying to please everyone is that most higher-end cafes have their own unique “specialty” drinks that combine beautifully extracted espresso shots with cold and sweet ingredients. This goes way beyond affogato. It also cannot be compared to the Starbucks line-up of sugar-based drinks. These specialty drinks, which I have only seen in abundance in Chiang Mai cafes, are akin to what the finest mixologist would whip up at a high-end cocktail bar. Served in unique glasses and topped with aromatic garnishes, it’s a perfect espresso at the heart of the specialty drink instead of a spirit.
Barista as Craftsman
In the West, the role of a barista is often stigmatized as low-paying and low-skilled, a “fallback” job for those who couldn’t find anything better. During a recent trip to the East Coast USA, I noticed that the baristas I encountered seemed bored, jaded, and resentful.
Not so in Chiang Mai.
The conditions here are very different. In Chiang Mai, working at trendy coffee shops has status, higher pay, and better working conditions than other entry-level jobs. It’s hard to understand unless you know something about the employment situation here. First of all, getting any job is typically very difficult, even a low-level admin position can take several interviews spread over multiple weeks. The pay is abominably low, most entry-level jobs pay less than 15,000baht/month ($410). And those business jobs come with a lot of strings attached: strict dress code, theatrical respect for superiors, being hyper-punctual, showing ‘team spirit’ (working overtime without complaining). And then Uupwards mobility is often restricted due to the nature of family-run businesses.
Faced with such bleak prospects for getting a normal ‘job’ it is no wonder that many young Thais prefer the relative freedom, fun, and cool factor of being a barista.
Why does this matter for the third-wave coffee scene in Chiang Mai? It’s because there is an abundance of eager, bright, serious, hard-working baristas here who love their job, and are dedicated to improving their skills. Being a barista isn’t just a “fallback” job, it can be a career and a craft.
How Chiang Mai Cafés Are Elevating the Experience
The Atmosphere: More than Just a Café
The atmosphere in Chiang Mai’s coffee shops goes way beyond the norm. Let’s start with the interiors. Forget about cramped spaces with a couple of worn-out sofas. Many of these places are multi-story marvels, decked out with everything from cozy nooks for reading to spacious workstations. Need a plug? They’re everywhere. Comfortable seating? They’ve got you covered.
But it’s not just about utility; it’s also about aesthetics. We’re talking environmental touches that make you forget you’re in a café—lush trees, serene ponds, and blooming flower gardens. Some places even sport antiques and art pieces that could belong in a museum. If you’ve been to Baristro Asian Style, you’ll know exactly what “over-the-top renovations” look like.
And the vibe? You’re not just welcomed; you’re encouraged to linger, even after you’ve enjoyed your last delicious sip. These places become destinations, not just pit stops. It’s common to see people dressing up just to go out for coffee. It’s not simply about getting your caffeine fix. It’s an outing, an experience, and perhaps even a small adventure.
So when you walk into a café in Chiang Mai, you’re not just entering a coffee shop. You’re stepping into an atmosphere that invites you to work, socialize, or just chill—all while savoring some of the best coffee you’ve ever had.
This is a random sampling of some cafe interiors.
Chiang Mai’s coffee culture has seamlessly blended the principles of the third-wave coffee movement with the city’s distinctive design sensibilities, resulting in a coffee scene that transcends the ordinary. Third-wave coffee’s commitment to quality, ethics, and sustainability has transformed Chiang Mai’s coffee landscape – both in the hills where it’s grown and in twon where a unique new coffee destination can seed the revitalization of a neighborhood.
The city’s baristas are true artisans, celebrating the craft of brewing and promoting a sense of community among growers, sellers, and drinkers.
Chiang Mai’s stunning coffee shops redefine. These cafes are not just places to grab a cup of coffee; they are destinations in themselves. Fully embodying the spirit of third-wave coffee from bean to cup and truly elevating coffee to an experience – from the moment you step inside and breathe in the heady aromas to long and even long after you’ve left, whether the memories linger on your tastebuds or your Instagram Stories.
