Eating might just be the Thai national pastime.
The classic joke: “what did they talk about during lunch?”
” Where to eat dinner!” 🥁
So if you’re in Chiang Mai, and you’re ready to dive taste-buds-first into the local food scene, get ready to strip it down and get out of your comfort zone.
‘Cause let’s be real – those sit-down Thai restaurants with their fancy menus and mood lighting? They’re lovely, but not what most locals would claim as their own.
Every Chiang Mai long-timer (including yours truly) has their ride-or-die food spots. That noodle shop that’s nursed more hangovers than you can count. The curry place that makes you cry (both because it’s so fricking tasty and also your tongue is burning away).
Us locals, we know what we like and we know where we like it.
If you’re new to town though? It can be a bit intimidating to trek off the beaten path.
No English menus, no familiar setups, and you literally have no idea how to even order…
But here’s the thing – these are the places you NEED to experience to really get Chiang Mai’s food scene. And that’s exactly what this guide is for. I’ll walk you through twelve types of local eateries you’ll find here, complete with my personal favorites and some community hot takes.
Something you’ll notice real quick is how diverse these spots can be.
One day you’re balancing on a wobbly plastic stool at a street cart, the next you’re in a converted shophouse that’s been serving the same dish for generations – you know because they haven’t cleaned the grease or soot off the walls since they opened…
Pro tip: don’t judge a book by its cover. Thai people love Instagram, but we love food MORE. We reliably go where the food tastes great, not just where it looks good.
Local Tips and Pointers for Ordering
Before we dive into the specifics, here are a few tips to help you order like a local:
1. Timing Matters: While many places make these types of foods available any time of day for tourist’s convenience, the real local joints stick to the hours when Thai people prefer these foods – which means spicy can happen for breakfast sometimes, but then you also have the local versions of “all day breakfast.”
2. Water: Most places have self-serve water coolers and ice. It’s free, and it’s typically safe. Bottled water and sodas are often available from a fridge, but you’ll pay for those.
3. Menu Mysteries: Don’t freak out if you don’t see a menu. Look for wall posters or just peep at what others are eating and point. Some spots will hand you a notepad to scribble your order. If your Thai writing is as bad as mine, just ask for help. If you have to tick boxes on a printed menu, pull out Google Translate for help.
5. Language Barriers: No Thai? No problem. Pointing, miming, and a sense of humor will get you far. It’s not considered rude here, I promise.
Some essential Thai phrases for ordering food:
- “I want to order __“; khor sung __ krab/kha
- “Not spicy“; mai phet krab/kha
- “A little spicy“; phet nit noi krab/kha
- “Takeaway please“; sai toong glub baan krab/kha
- “Very delicious“; aroi mak krab/kha
- “How much?“; tao rai krab/kha
- “Bill, please”; check bin krab/kha
(Gents say “krab” and ladies say “kha“)
6. Smiles and Patience: Thai people are nice, and you get more out of life when you don’t let fear of embarrassment hold you back.
Alright, now that you’re armed with these local hacks, let’s dive into the types of Thai food joints you’ll find in Chiang Mai.
Get ready to eat your way through the real Chiang Mai.
Lan Jok (ร้านโจ๊ก) 🥣
Best for early breakfast or late-night meals.
Lan Jok (rice porridge) places are another common late-night stop. Jok, a rice porridge similar to congee, is often served with ground pork, a poached egg, and garnished with fried garlic, ginger, and green onions. It’s hearty, comforting, and ideal for breakfast or a late-night snack.
How to order: The base is always jok (porridge), and you can add extras like pork balls (moo sap), an egg (kai), or crispy dough sticks (pa thong go). Don’t forget to season it with soy sauce, pepper, and vinegar to suit your taste.
We recommend: Jok Somphet is first in our hearts and that of many Chiang Mai-ers. When Lily stayed home sick from school, her mom would go buy her jok (with pork balls and egg) from this Chiang Mai institution. As an adult, she also discovered the joy of Jok Somphet as the place to go for essential hangover prevention following nights out at Zoe in Yellow.
Noodle Shops (ร้านก๋วยเตี๋ยว) 🍜
Great for breakfast, lunch, or dinner
Noodle shops, or guay tiew places, are ubiquitous across Chiang Mai. They offer a variety of noodle soups, including boat noodles, Yentafo (a pink noodle soup), and classics like pork or beef noodles.
How to order: Start by picking your noodle type—sen lek (thin rice noodles), sen yai (wide rice noodles), or bamii (egg noodles). Then, decide on your broth: clear, tom yum, or dry (without broth). Customize the flavor with condiments like chili, vinegar, and fish sauce at the table. It’s all about personalizing your bowl to your liking.
We recommend: Head to Chang Moi for delicious broth and generous portions at Guay Tiaew Kasem. They’ve been serving noodle soup here since the ‘80s and still going strong.
Khao Rad Gang Shops (ร้านข้าวราดแกง) 🍛
Best for breakfast or an early lunch
Khao rad gang shops are the ultimate quick lunch option. Also known as curry-over-rice places, they display pre-cooked dishes behind a glass case, allowing you to point and choose your favorites. This is, in your humble author’s opinions, the BEST way to try real local food. Curries and stir-fries made with mystery meats and unchewable herbs. Spice levels that will scald your insides. Pungent fermented dipping sauces… They have your usual green curry and veggies stir-fry, but also all the “authentic” Thai food that tourists claim to want but are too afraid to actually eat. You don’t find these restaurants in street markets or shopping mall food courts, but they’re all over. Blink and you’ll miss them though. Most cook up a huge batch of each dish in the morning and when they sell out, they close up shop for the day.
How to order: Simply point to the curries or stir-fries that catch your eye, and the vendor will spoon them onto a plate of rice. You can choose one, two, or three different dishes usually for a standardized price. This setup is perfect for trying a variety of Thai dishes in one sitting.
We recommend: If you can get there early enough, Krua Baan Mae across the street from Wat Umong Temple is excellent – gotta hurry though, they feed a lot of the folks staying for Vipassana and sell out well before noon. Further up the road in Pong Noi is Krua Mae Cha-em which features many Southern-style curries alongside our Lanna staples. YUM.
Lan Khao Man Gai (ร้านข้าวมันไก่) 🐓
Ideal for breakfast, but available any time of day
Khao man gai is Thailand’s version of Hainanese chicken rice. This dish consists of steamed or fried chicken served with fragrant rice cooked in chicken fat, accompanied by a rich soy-based sauce and clear chicken broth. It’s yummy and filling and enjoyed any time of day.
How to order: You’ll need to specify whether you want steamed chicken (khao man gai) or fried chicken (khao man gai tod). Many stalls also offer a combination of both. The meal is typically served with cucumber slices and a flavorful dipping sauce, which is a mix of garlic, chili, soy, and ginger.
We recommend: There is yummy khao man gai wherever you go, but the Chiang Mai favorite is the OG Khao Man Gai Natharam just south of the Old City.
Made-to-Order Meals (อาหารตามสั่ง) 🍳
Ideal for lunch or dinner
These are casual eateries where dishes are made fresh to order, typically from a somewhat standardized menu. You can get all kinds of stir-fries, fried rice, and basic curries like pad kra pao (stir-fried basil) or khao pad (fried rice).
How to order: Ask for your favorite dish with your choice of protein—chicken (gai), pork (moo), or tofu (dao hu). For rice dishes, request it laard khao (over rice) or get it tam sang (cooked separately). Don’t hesitate to ask for spicy or mild depending on your heat tolerance!
We recommend: You find these places everywhere, but two of my favorites are the Organic Vegetables lady next to Hillside Condo 3 in Nimman, and Krau Srifaa near the Huay Kaew Road and Canal Road intersection.
Khao Soi Shops (ร้านข้าวซอย) 🍗
Typically a lunch or early dinner spot.
You can’t visit Chiang Mai without trying khao soi, the region’s signature dish. This creamy coconut curry noodle soup is typically served with tender-stewed chicken or beef, topped with crunchy fried noodles, and garnished with shallots, pickled mustard greens, and lime.
How to order: You’ll be asked whether you want chicken (gai) or beef (neua). Once the dish arrives, adjust the flavor to your taste using the condiments provided, usually lime wedges and chili oil.
We recommend: Lily’s favorite khao soi joint on Sirimangkalajarn was a casualty of the pandemic, and she’s still so mad about it she refuses to officially endorse another… Ask the internets though, and they say longtime fave Khao Soi Khun Yai in Sri Phum has been officially dethroned by Khao Soi Lung Prakit in Hai Ya (AKA “Khao Soi Netflix”).
Khanom Jeen Shops (ร้านขนมจีน) 🍲
Great for lunch or early afternoon.
Khanom jeen refers to fermented rice noodles served with different curries or sauces. The name literally translates to “Chinese snack/treat” but in truth this noodle dish, popular all across Thailand, originates from the Mon people. Each region has its preferred khanom jeen curry toppings, and our specialty in the North is nam ngiao (spicy pork and tomato broth).
How to order: Choose your curry or sauce—whether it’s the Northern nam ngiao or a Southern-style fish curry—and ladle it over your noodles. Top it off with fresh vegetables and herbs from the table for added texture and flavor.
We recommend: Our nanny says the best khanom jeen in Chiang Mai is at Khanom Jeen Doi Kahm near the scenic temple of the same name. Here, khanom jeen is served buffet style so you can try all the different varieties and flavors to find your favorite.
Moo Kratha (หมูกระทะ) ♨️
Best for dinner, especially with a group
Moo kratha restaurants are extremely popular and offer a DIY dining experience where you grill your own meats at the table. This Thai-style barbecue features a grilling dome for meat, surrounded by a moat where you can cook vegetables in broth.
How to order: Select your meats (usually pork, chicken, or seafood) and veggies from a buffet or an à la carte menu. Grill the meat on the dome and let the juices drip into the broth for added flavor. Don’t forget the dipping sauces—sweet and spicy chili sauce is a must!
We recommend: We go to a great place called Homie BBQ near to our house in Nong Kwai, but there are a ton of beloved moo kratha spots around town. Old stalwarts are the unassuming Fah Srai Moo Krata near the Kuang Singh intersection, or TL Moo Kratha on the Ping River.
Ping Yang Mala Grills (ร้านปิ้งย่างหม่าล่า) 🥵
Great for group dinners and spice lovers
Ping yang mala is Chiang Mai’s spicy take on Korean BBQ. It’s a relatively new addition to the local food scene, but it’s quickly become a favorite among younger locals and adventurous expats. The concept blends DIY grilling with the numbing spice of Sichuan-style mala sauce.
How to order: Most ping yang mala spots are buffet-style. Grab a plate and load up on raw meats, veggies, and noodles from the selection. Back at your table, you’ll grill these items on a hot plate, then dip them in mala sauce. The sauce usually comes in different spice levels, so choose according to your tolerance.
We recommend: The Funky Grill on Huay Kaew Road is a whole experience of Thai dining. Popular with students from nearby CMU, they set up outside a big bike shop every evening. Thai people really love streetside dining in a way that is almost the antithesis of European al fresco… Noisy streets with traffic raging alongside is somehow part of the vibe.
Lan Khao Tom Baat (ร้านข้าวต้มบาท) 🍚
Best for late-night dining
These late-night spots are perfect after an evening out. They serve plain boiled rice (khao tom) for one baht per bowl, accompanied by a variety of side dishes such as stir-fried vegetables, omelets, and meats.
How to order: You order the boiled rice in bowls and then select from various side dishes displayed behind a glass case. Meals are usually eaten family-style, with everyone sharing the sides alongside individual bowls of rice.
We recommend: Khao Tom Baht Diaow on Sirimangkalajarn Road is a great place to dip your toes into this kinda restaurant. They have helpful menus and staff, and also offer standard Thai fare like pad thai if you want to have something more familiar.
Raan Ahaan Jay (ร้านอาหารเจ) 🌱
Best for lunch or dinner
Raan ahaan jay, or jay food restaurants, offer a unique culinary experience rooted in Thai Buddhist traditions. “Jay” food is stricter than typical vegetarian fare, excluding not just meat and animal products, but also strong-smelling vegetables like garlic and onions. This style of eating is particularly popular during the annual Vegetarian Festival, but jay restaurants in Chiang Mai serve customers year-round.
How to order: Most jay restaurants operate cafeteria style. You’ll find mock meat dishes, stir-fried vegetables, soups, and curries. Just point at what you’d like to order.
We recommend: Pun Pun Organic, located in the back of Wat Suan Dok, offers an excellent introduction to jay cuisine. Or go to the Im Jai food stall in Maya Mall’s basement food court – the owners are some of the nicest, smiliest humans on the planet.
Food Courts in Malls and Markets 🎟️
Available throughout the day for various meals
Many of Chiang Mai’s shopping malls and large markets feature sprawling food courts. These are perfect for sampling a range of Thai food in one place, offering everything from noodles and curries to grilled meats and sweet treats.
How to order: Food courts often use a pre-paid card or coupon system. Load up your card, browse the stalls, and order whatever you want—from spicy Som Tum (papaya salad) to crispy fried chicken. Swipe the card, and you’re good to go!
We recommend: With two food courts to choose from, one upstairs featuring your usual Thai favorites and one downstairs which highlights more local Northern cuisine, Central Airport Plaza is the top rated by many locals for their excellent food courts. We do tend to visit this one more often as well because they have a nice little playground at the upstairs one.
And there’s your cheat sheet to eating like a local in Chiang Mai. From slurping jok at dawn to grilling moo kratha late into the night, you’re now equipped to navigate the city’s food scene without looking like a total n00b.
At the end of the day, eating in Chiang Mai isn’t just about stuffing your face (though that’s a big part of it). It’s about getting a taste – literally – of what makes this city tick. So get out there, point at something that looks good, and dig in. Your taste buds are in for one heck of a ride. 🍜🇹🇭
